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Costume in Bharata Natyam

The costume of the Bharata Natyam dancer is unique. While the ornaments and jewelry have remained the same, the costume has been greatly refined today when compared to the olden day version, when the sari is cut and tailored to make a costume which comprises a graceful trouser like garment to give the legs freedom to move. A matching blouse is worn. A semi-circular piece of cloth which covers the back is tied around the hips. An elegant fan which opens out in a full flower-like fashion is fastened to the front of the costume from waist downwards. The length of the fan varies according to individual preferences. A top cloth draped over the right shoulder, sari-fashion, completes the ensemble. If the sari is draped in the conventional way, but high enough to keep the ankles exposed, a matching tight pyjama is worn underneath so as to facilitate movement.

Jewelery in Bharata Natyam

The jewelery worn during a recital by a Bharata Natyam dancer is very distinctive. The ornament known as 'Netri Chutti' goes around the head at the forehead level with a special piece made to snugly fit over the central hair parting with a pendant hanging over the forehead. On either side of the parting are stone engraved circular pieces of jewelery called 'Chandran' and 'Suryan' (the Moon and the Sun). High on the back of the head is a large piece of jewelry embellished with stones called 'Raakkodi'. The hair is worn in a long braid covered with flowers. Around the raakkodi, too, are flowers, crowning head at the rear. The hanging inverted umbrella-like earrings called 'Jimiki" are strung onto a stone-studded chain (maattal) secured onto the hair on either side. Apart from the nose ring (mookkuthi), the 'Bullaakku' is fastened onto the nostrils just above the upper lip. Necklaces made of pearls and rubies decorate the neck along with a long gold necklace called 'Kaasu maalai'. Secured around the waist is the ornament called the 'Oddiyaanam' (a waistband made of gold). Stone-studded bangles and rings adorn the wrists and fingers respectively. The dancer wears ankle bells, called 'ghungurus' or 'salangai'.

Taala and Music

Taala is a measurement of time and a very complicated aspect of the dance and is determined by the music, on which the item is based. Intricate arithmetic is involved in a taala, which refers to a rhythmic cycle, and the dancer's movements and foot contact should tally perfectly with the beats of the metrical cycle which are clearly brought out in the playing of the percussion instrument (drum) which accompanies the music.
Bharata Natyam is based on Carnatic (south Indian classical) music. Along with the vocalist who sings the songs set to respective melodic modes (called ragas) are instruments like the veena, the violin and the flute, for accompaniment. The entire melodic support is led by the Nattuvanaar who recites the rhythmic syllables and plays on the cymbals. Music is a very important part of the dance, for without it the dancer lacks a base to build her dance on.

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